O nce upon a time in Springfield, the Simpson family visited a new supermarket. In doing so, the Simpsons were making a choice to reduce their choice. This comes to mind because Tesco chief executive Dave Lewis seems bent on making shopping in his stores less baffling than it used to be. This was, in part, a response to the growing market shares of Aldi and Lidl, which only offer between 2, and 3, lines.
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Little over a generation ago the humble snack came in just a trio of flavours: ready salted, cheese and onion, or salt and vinegar. Today the choice is tongue-tingling: Thai sweet chilli, balsamic vinegar and caramelised onion, Oriental red curry, lime and coriander chutney, vintage cheddar and onion chutney, buffalo mozzarella and herbs, chicken tikka masala. And those are merely the varieties confected by a single crispmaker, Walkers, a division of PepsiCo, which turns out 10m bags of crisps every day for the British market alone. Crisps these days can be crinkle-cut, thick-cut, ridge-cut, square-cut, hand-fried, reduced fat, sold in six-packs, grab bags, party size or family packs. Wheel a trolley down the aisle of any modern Western hypermarket, and the choice of all sorts is dazzling. The average American supermarket now carries 48, items, according to the Food Marketing Institute, more than five times the number in Britain's Tesco stocks 91 different shampoos, 93 varieties of toothpaste and of household cleaner.